Sunday, October 11, 2009

Folk embroideries of India

So lets us start with Folk/Tribal embroideries of India.....

Some say folk and tribal embroideries are different. I feel there is a very thin line of division between the two, since India was and still is a country of villages, inspite of flourishing cities /urban areas since ancient times.and most of the arts and crafts came from rural areas. Any way I have grouped them together for convenience.

Folk or tribal embroideries of India are  very beautiful and have been handed over generations since a long time. Its generally the women folk who do this art.Girls take to embroidery at a very young age learning from their mothers, grandmothers, sisters and other ladies of the community. After men leave for their daily work, women gather together in their houses, or under tress and while gossiping, embroider on various articles.

The grand mothers start embroidering and making clothes for the young ones as soon as their daughters or sons are married. So also mothers and grand mothers start making dowry goods for their young girls,and the girls them selves make them. The dowry goods may include wedding dress of the bride, bed spreads and various other such items.

Mind you these embroideries are mostly usable items and not just for decorative purpose. Women's clothing, like saris, skirts, blouses, dupattas (stoles), bags, purses, tray clothes, bed spreads, quilts, torans, men's clothes, children's clothes, handkerchiefs, tents, to decorate cradles, even for decorating the animals like, horses, camels, bulls and cows are also made. The horns of the bulls and cows, their foreheads, drapes on their backs are made. The decorations for horses and camels are also embroidered and the result is so beautiful, colorful and intricately done patterns.

The basic ground fabric used is cotton most of the time and sometimes silks, made from hand spun yarn and hand woven. Yarn used may be cotton, silk or wool. Both the fabric and the yarn were dyed in natural colours. But now  slowly fabrics and threads available in the present markets are being used. Applique, beads, small bells (ghungroos), mirrors (shisha), cowries (sea shells), beads, coins, metallic objects, fringes, tassels, sequin and braids.

Motifs can be geometrical, birds like parrots, peacocks, swans, cranes, animals like lions, tigers, horses, camels, goats, cows, bulls, snakes,  flowers, fruits, trees village scenes, festival scenes, gods, goddesses and many more.

Each region has its own unique and distinct features. That helps in identifying the region, area, group or community to which they belong to.
 
This is an example of Aari work on a silk saree
 
This is shisha and bead work by the Banjaras;  a beautiful bag

From the next post I will be dealing with each style separately....Keep watching my blog

Friday, October 9, 2009

Diverse varieties of Indian Embroideries

Embroidery can be defined as Painting with a Needle? That's what I think embroidery is. Isn't embroidery a form of self expression for us women? The fabric is a canvas, where we women, paint pictures our lives, reflecting our desires, hopes, aspirations, using the colours of our cultures, traditions, religious beliefs and regional influences.

In India, for the Rich, embroidery always meant flaunting their wealth, status and for standing out amongst others. For the poor and middle class, it is a way to strengthen old and much used cloth, to cover tear and wear, to lengthen life of the clothes for some more time, to indicate the region or group to which they belong and a way to reflect the love of the woman doing it for her man or son or daughter. I for one believe that embroideries are an expression of our love for the person for whom we are stitching them.

Indian embroideries according to me can be broadly classified into two categories:
  • The Folk and Tribal embroideries and
  • The embroideries for the Rich and the Nobility or Urban
What is amazing is that  most of the Indian embroideries are folk or tribal embroideries and came from the hands of the nomads, villages and the poor. Due to invasions and trade links with other cultures and countries, there was always an intermingling between the people from different areas so also their cultures, languages, arts and crafts and cuisines. This has greatly influenced our arts and crafts and also embroideries to a great extent and evolved in into a very beautiful art.

The following are the various types/styles of Indian embroideries ;
  1. Aari Bharath
  2. Ahir Bharath
  3. Abhla Bharath 
  4. Agothi
  5. Applique
  6. Bagh
  7. Banjara
  8. Bharath
  9. Bidri
  10. Chamba
  11. Chikankari
  12. Darawadi
  13. Dhebaria
  14. Gota Kinara
  15. Heer Bharath
  16. Jhat
  17. Kabira and Khudi Tebha 
  18. Khambhiro
  19. Kharek
  20. Kanbi Bharath
  21. Kanta
  22. Karchobi
  23. Kasuti
  24. Kashida from Bihar
  25. kashida from Kashmir
  26. Kathi
  27. Mochi Bharath
  28. Moti Bharath
  29. Mutwa
  30. Neran
  31. Pakko Bharath
  32. Patch work
  33. Patti ka kaam
  34. Phulkari
  35. Pichwai
  36. Rabari 
  37. Sadu Bharath
  38. Sindhi Taropa 
  39. Soi Bharath
  40. Soof
  41. Sujani
  42. Toda
  43. Zardosi
  44. Leather embroidery


This is the applique and mirror work from Pippli Orissa



This is the patch work with mirrors and gold threads from Gujarath

I have covered major styles here, might have missed some and some may be same technique but with different names. As I am still gathering information on these styles, I am learning along with you all. So as and when I take up a particular style, I will try to give as much information about it as possible. But the subject is so vast and material is not so easily available. I am referring various books and articles and trying to bring them all together and organise them into proper form. Let us see. But if any one reading this post can add to or correct it, I will be very happy please.

Free Apron Patterns

This is one amazing site, I landed on browsing. There are lots of patterns for Aprons and very neatly classified into various categories. They have pattern for children, men, knit, crochet, vintage, full aprons, smocked, for housekeeping, lined and reversible and some using jean cloth. My its an awesome collection. Links to Tutorials and Free Patterns have been  provided. Adding of bottom pleats, chicken scratch embroidery and other such Apron Goodies are also there. Thanks a lot Tipnut. A great site.


This being festive season in India and my friends who are gearing up for Christmas, why not try this site. I for one want to recycle my brothers jeans and do something with it. Why not an apron for my sis and mom? What do you say? Well I will try and post the results here soon.

Hope you all try the patterns of your choice and let me know the result. Here is the link:

http://tipnut.com/56-free-apron-patterns-you-can-make/

Keep smiling :)