India has been and still is famous for its rich and varied textiles, as well as embroideries since ancient times; that is the Indus Valley civilization which was around 2500 BC. I will be doing separate posts on textiles as many of my friends wanted it. Here I am going to discuss embroideries of India as briefly as possible and post separate articles on each of the techniques including tutorials, stitches involved and free patterns.
Embroidery has always played a very important part in our Indian societies. Whether in rural or urban lives, embroidered goods/textiles figures in our weddings as dowry, religious ceremonies and almost all auspicious occasions and festivities and also as group or region identifier. Richly Embroidered textiles using precious gems, gold and silver threads and pearls etc, were worn by the kings and royalty, adorned their walls, beds and thrones. Of course, our embroidered textiles were a great source of income and helped us in trading with other countries since ancient times.
Indian embroideries are different from that of the others may be due to;
* Natural dyes were used for dying the cloth and the yarn,
* Use of delicate fabrics like fine, silks, cottons and muslins as ground fabric,
* Use of gold silver, gems and pearls and other semi precious jewels for embroidery,
* Exquisite, fine, intricate and detailed patterns
* Highly colorful and unique embroidery forms and diversity in styles and designs
There also some similarities with embroideries of other countires which I will point out when I am writing about specific styles.
Embroideries here are as different and varied as our cultures and languages. There may be many similarities in different styles, but then each embroidery is distinct from the other, has a mark of its own. This difference in styles patterns or motifs used, ground fabric and yarns used, are all influenced by the factors like diversity in cultures, religions, traditions and availability of local indigenous materials.
For example Bengal is famous for its fine cottons, muslin cloths and a particular type of silk known as “Tussar silk”. Hence these from the base for the famous Kanta work. In Kashmir Woolen clothes and wool yarn is used for embroideries. In South again there are fine cottons and silks.
This is the beautiful Aari work from Kashmir done with wool yarn on wool blended fabric, since the winters are very cold and severe. Aari is a needle or awl which is popularly known as Tambour work in other countries, which is chain stitch.
This the famous Kanta work from Bengal on fine Handloom cotton sari with Zari Border.
This the famous Chikankari work from Uttar Pradesh. Its like shadow work.
This is the famous Phulkari work from Punjab, done with silk threads on a synthetic background.
Similarly the embroideries from Gujarath and Rajasthan, mostly dessert regions are very colourful and vibrant. The Chikankari embroidery from Uttar Pradesh is very intricate but soothing in pastel colours. Some embroideries use geometric patterns. But mostly the patterns are derived from everyday lives-floral, animals and birds, temple towers, festivals and celebrations, village lives, gods and goddesses etc. Use of mirrors, coins, cowrie and beads is also a common practice in tribal or folk embroideries. Some of our embroideries have almost disappeared, where as some have been revived and have been modernised to suit the present tastes.
So come with me to explore the wonderful, beautiful and fascinating world of Indian Embroideries over the following weeks to unravel the intricacies of each style.
This is such a vast ocean, so what I know is very less when compared to what I have still to learn. So friends some of you out there may be experts, professionals, fashion designers or having interest in this subject, if there are any omissions, or errors please correct me, by leaving your valuable comments, suggestions so that I can also learn something more.
Please do leave your comments and suggestions...they will motivate me to post more ...
